Polyphenolics-Phospholipid Complexes as Natural Cosmetic Ingredients: Properties and Application

Ljiljana Djekic; Danina Krajisnik; Zorica Micic

doi:10.3139/113.110364

Published by De Gruyter May 13, 2015

Polyphenolics-Phospholipid Complexes as Natural Cosmetic Ingredients: Properties and Application

Polyphenol-Phospholipid-Komplexe als natürliche Kosmetikinhaltsstoffe: Eigenschaften und Anwendung

Ljiljana Djekic , Danina Krajisnik and Zorica Micic

From the journal Tenside Surfactants Detergents

https://doi.org/10.3139/113.110364

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Abstract

Phospholipids and polyphenolic phytoconstituents may form specific molecular complexes (polyphenolics-phospholipid complexes, phyto-phospholipid complexes) with definite chemical structure, solubility, thermal and spectroscopic characteristics. Furthermore, such specific molecular entities may self-associate into spherical unilamellar vesicles (phyto-vesicles, herbosomes) with size at nano- or microscale. Phyto-phospholipid complexation was recognised as a promising strategy to improve formulation performances and enhance efficiency of herbal polyphenolics with cosmetic relevance in comparison with pure phytoconstituents. This concise review summarizes the current knowledge on preparation methods, physico-chemical properties and aspects of application of the selected phyto-complexes as cosmetic active ingredients.

Kurzfassung

Phospholipide und polyphenolische Pflanzenbestandteile sind in der Lage spezifische Molekülkomplexe (Polyphenol-Phospholipid-Komplexe, Phytophospholipidkomplexe) mit definierter chemischer Struktur, Löslichkeit, sowie thermischen und spektroskopischen Charakteristika zu bilden. Des Weiteren können solche speziellen Moleküleinheiten zu sphärischen unilamellaren nano- oder mikroskaligen Vesikeln (Phytovesikel, Herbosome) selbst-assoziieren. Die Phytophospholipidkomplexierung wurde verstanden als eine vielversprechende Strategie zur Verbesserung der Leistungsfähigkeit von Formulierungen und zur Erhöhung der Wirkung von pflanzlichen kosmetisch relevanten Polyphenolen im Vergleich zu den reinen Pflanzenwirkstoffen. Dieser kurz gefasste Übersichtsbeitrag fasst das derzeitige Wissen über die Herstellungsmethoden, die physikaisch-chemischen Eigenschaften und die Anwendungsmöglichkeiten von ausgewählten Phytokomplexen als kosmetisch aktive Inhaltsstoffe zusammen.

Key words: Polyphenolics-phospholipid complexes; supramolecular phospholipids-polyphenolics interactions; phyto-vesicles; herbosomes; cosmetic active ingredients

Stichwörter: Polyphenol-Phospholipid-Komplexe; supramolekulare Polyphenol-Phospholipid-Wechselwirkungen; Phytovesikel; Herbosome; aktive kosmetische Inhaltstoffe

* Correspondence address, Dr. Ljiljana Djekic, University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical technology and Cosmetology, Vojvode Stepe 450, 1, 1221 Belgrade, Serbia, Tel.: +38 11 13 95 13 59, Fax: +38 11 13 97 28 40, E-Mail: ljiljanadjek@gmail.com

Ljiljana Djekic received her B. Sc, M. Sc., and Ph. D. in Pharmaceutical technology from the University of Belgrade – Faculty of pharmacy. She is currently docent at Department of Pharmaceutical technology and cosmetology, University of Belgrade – Faculty of pharmacy, Belgrade, Serbia. Her research interests are focused on development and characterization of colloidal carriers of drugs and cosmetic active substance, including surfactant self-assembly based nanocarriers.

Danina Krajisnik has B. Sc in pharmacy and M. Sc., and Ph. D. in Pharmaceutical technology. She is docent at Department of Pharmaceutical technology and cosmetology, University of Belgrade – Faculty of pharmacy, Belgrade, Serbia. Her research work is related with characterization and pharmaceutical and cosmetic application of surfactants, polymers and mesoporous materials.

Zorica Micic received her B. Sc. in pharmacy from University of Belgrade – Faculty of pharmacy, Belgrade, Serbia. She is doing Ph. D thesis in Cosmetology at Department of Pharmaceutical technology and cosmetology, University of Belgrade – Faculty of pharmacy. Her research interest is focused on development of phyto-complexes-loaded cosmetic formulations for different purposes.

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Received: 2015-01-12

Accepted: 2015-02-18

Published Online: 2015-05-13

Published in Print: 2015-05-15

Polyphenolics-Phospholipid Complexes as Natural Cosmetic Ingredients: Properties and Application

Abstract

Kurzfassung

References

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