Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

The effect of glycerol and humidity on desmosome degradation in stratum corneum

  • Original Paper
  • Published:
Archives of Dermatological Research Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

Moisturizers are known to have occlusive, emollient and humectant properties, all of which help to alleviate the symptoms of skin xerosis. Although the biological mode of action of moisturizers is poorly understood, the recent observation that skin xerosis is associated with incomplete desmosome digestion suggests that moisturizers improve the desquamation process in such conditions. To examine the possibility that certain moisturizers act by facilitating desmosomal digestion, we investigated the ability of glycerol, a common humectant, to influence this process in stratum corneum in vitro. Examining desmosome morphology in isolated stratum corneum by electron microscopy, it was observed that the desmosomes were in more advanced stages of degradation in glycerol-treated tissue compared with control tissue. This enhanced desmosomal degradation in glycerol-treated tissue was confirmed by significant decreases in the levels of immunoreactive desmoglein 1, a marker of desmosome integrity. Desmosomal degradation was also shown to be a humidity-dependent event, being significantly reduced at low relative humidity. The effect of glycerol on desmosome digestion was emphasized further in two in vitro model systems. Firstly, glycerol increased the rate of corneocyte loss from the superficial surface of human skin biopsies in a simple desquamation assay. Secondly, measurement of the mechanical strength of sheets of stratum corneum, using an extensiometer, indicated a dramatic reduction in the intercorneocyte forces following glycerol treatment. These studies demonstrated the ability of glycerol to facilitate desmosome digestion in vitro. Extrapolating from these results, we believe that one of the major actions of moisturizers in vivo is to aid the digestion of desmosomes which are abnormally retained in the superficial layers of xerotic stratum corneum.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Log in via an institution

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  1. Allen TD, Potten CS (1975) Desmosomal form, fate and function in mammalian epidermis. J Ultrastruct Res 51: 94–105

    Google Scholar 

  2. Anton-Lamprecht I, Schnyder UW (1974) Ultrastructure of inborn errors of keratinisation. VI. Inherited ichthyosis — a model system for heterogeneities in keratinisation disturbances. Arch Dermatol Res 250: 207–227

    Google Scholar 

  3. Bartolone J, Doughty D, Egelrud T (1991) A non-invasive approach for assessing corneocyte cohesion: immunochemical detection of desmoglein 1. J Invest Dermatol 96: 565

    Google Scholar 

  4. Bissett DL, McBride JF (1984) Skin conditioning with glycerol. J Soc Cosmet Chem 35: 345

    Google Scholar 

  5. Bissett DL, McBride JF, Patrick LF (1987) Role of protein and calcium in stratum corneum cell cohesion. Arch Dermatol Res 279: 184–189

    Google Scholar 

  6. Blancher-Bardon CL, Anton-Lamprecht I, Puissant A, Schynder UW (1978) Ultrastructural features of ichthyotic skin in Refsum's syndome. In: Marks R, Dykes PJ (eds) The ichthyoses. MTP Press, Lancaster pp 65–69

    Google Scholar 

  7. Boisits EK, Nole GE, Cheney MC (1989) The refined regession method. J Cutan Aging Cosmet Dermatol 1: 155–163

    Google Scholar 

  8. Bowser P, White RJ (1985) Isolation, barrier properties and lipid analysis of stratum compactum, a discrete region of the stratum corneum. Br J Dermatol 112: 1–14

    Google Scholar 

  9. Brody I (1969) The modified plasma membrane of the transition and horny cells in normal human epidermis as revealed by electron microscopy. Acta Derm Venereol (Stockh) 49: 128–138

    Google Scholar 

  10. Chapman SJ, Walsh A (1990) Desmosomes, corneosomes and desquamation. An ultrastructural study. Arch Dermatol Res 282: 304–310

    Google Scholar 

  11. Egelrud T (1992) Stratum corneum chymotryptic-like enzyme: evidence for its location in the stratum corneum intercellular space. Eur J Dermatol 2: 46–49

    Google Scholar 

  12. Egelrud T, Lundstrom A (1990) The dependance of detergent-induced cell dissociation in non-palmoplantar stratum corneum on endogenous proteases. J Invest Dermatol 95: 456–459

    Google Scholar 

  13. Egelrud T, Regnier M, Sondell B, Schroot B, Schmidt R (1993) Expression of stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme in reconstructed human epidermis and its suppression by retinoic acid. Acta Derm Venereol (Stockh) 73: 181–184

    Google Scholar 

  14. Elias PM (1983) Epidermal lipids, barrier function and desquamation. J Invest Dermatol 80: 44s-49s

    Google Scholar 

  15. Elias PM, Menon GK (1991) Structural and lipid biochemical correlates of the epidermal permeability barrier. In: Elias PM (ed) Skin lipids (Advances in lipid research, vol 24). Academic Press, San Diego, pp 1–26

    Google Scholar 

  16. Elias PM, Menon GK, Grayson S, Brown BE (1988) Membrane structural alterations in murine stratum corneum: relationship to the localisation of polar lipids and phospholipases. J Invest Dermatol 91: 3–10

    Google Scholar 

  17. Epstein EH, Williams ML, Elias PM (1981) Steroid sulphatase, X-linked ichthyosis and stratum corneum cell cohesion. Arch Dermatol 117: 761–763

    Google Scholar 

  18. Froebe CL, Simion FA, Ohlmeyer H, Rhein LD, Mattai J, Cagan RH, Friberg SE (1990) Prevention of stratum corneum lipid phase transition by glycerol — an alternative mechanism for skin moisturization. J Soc Cosmet Chem 41: 51–65

    Google Scholar 

  19. Kithara T, Shinta H, Imokawa G (1992) Quantitative analysis of desmoglein 1 in the stratum corneum from UVB exposed skin. J Dermatol Sci 4: 121

    Google Scholar 

  20. Laden K (1962) The role of glycerol in skin hydration. J Soc Cosmet Chem 13: 455–458

    Google Scholar 

  21. Laemmli UK (1970) Cleavage of structural proteins during the assembly of the head of bacteriophage T4. Nature 227: 680–685

    Google Scholar 

  22. Leveque JL, Grove G, Rigal J, Corcuff P, Kligman AM, Saint Leger D (1987) Biophysical characterization of dry facial skin. J Soc Cosmet Chem 82: 171–177

    Google Scholar 

  23. Lundstom A, Egelrud T (1988) Cell shedding from human plantar skin in vitro: evidence of its dependance on endogenous proteolysis. J Invest Dermatol 91: 340–343

    Google Scholar 

  24. Lundstrom A, Egelrud T (1990) Cell shedding form human plantar skin in vitro: evidence that two different types of protein structures are degraded by a chymotrypsinlike enzyme. Arch Dermatol Res 282: 234–237

    Google Scholar 

  25. Lundstrom A, Egelrud T (1990) Evidence that cell shedding from plantar stratum corneum in vitro involves endogenous proteolysis of the desmosomal protein desmoglein 1. J Invest Dermatol 94: 216–220

    Google Scholar 

  26. Lundstrom A, Egelrud T (1991) A chymotrypsin-like proteinase that may be involved in desquamation in plantar stratum corneum. Arch Dermatol Res 283: 108–112

    Google Scholar 

  27. Lundstrom A, Egelrud T (1991) Stratum corneum chymotryptic like enzyme: a proteinase which may be generally present in the stratum corneum and with a possible involvement in desquamation. Acta Derm Venereol (Stockh) 71: 471–474

    Google Scholar 

  28. Mattai J, Froebe CL, Rhein LD, Simion FA, Ohlmeyer H, Su DT, Friberg SE (1993) Prevention of model stratum corneum lipid phase transitions invitro by cosmetic additives — differential scanning calorimetry, optical microscopy and water evaporation studies. J Soc Cosmet Chem 44: 89–100

    Google Scholar 

  29. Menon GK, Ghadially R, Williams ML, Elias PM (1992) Lamellar bodies as delivery systems of hydrolytic enzymes: implications for normal and abnormal desquamation. Br J Dermatol 126: 337–345

    Google Scholar 

  30. Ranasinghe AW, Wertz PW, Downing DT, Mackenzie IC (1986) Lipid composition of cohesive and desquamated corneocytes from mouse ear skin. J Invest Dermatol 86: 187–190

    Google Scholar 

  31. Rawlings AV, Hope J, Ackerman C, Banks J (1992) Hydroxycaprylic acid improves stratum corneum extensibility at low relative humidities and protects the desmosomes against mechanical damage. Proceedings 17th International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, International Congress I, pp 3–13

    Google Scholar 

  32. Rawlings AV, Hope J, Rogers J, Mayo AM, Watkinson A, Scott IR (1993) Skin dryness — What is it? J Invest Dermatol 100: 510

    Google Scholar 

  33. Rawlings AV, Watkinson A, Rogers J, Mayo AM, Hope J, Scott IR (1994) Abnormalities in stratum corneum structure, lipid composition and desmosome degradation in soap-induced winter xerosis. J Soc Cosmet Chem 45: 203–220

    Google Scholar 

  34. Rawlings AV, Scott IR, Harding CR, Bowser PA (1994) Stratum corneum moisturization at the molecular level. Prog Dermatol 28 (1): 1–12

    Google Scholar 

  35. Rieger MM, Deem DS (1974) Skin Moisturizers II. The effects of cosmetic ingredients on human stratum corneum. J Soc Cosmet Chem 25: 253–262

    Google Scholar 

  36. Scott IR, Harding CR (1986) Filaggrin breakdown to water binding compounds during development of the rat stratum corneum is controlled by the water activity of the environment. Dev Biol 115: 84–91

    Google Scholar 

  37. Skerrow CJ, Clelland D, Skerrow D (1988) Abnormal retention of desmosomes in psoriatic scale. Br J Dermatol 118: 283–284

    Google Scholar 

  38. Skerrow CJ, Clelland DG, Skerrow D (1989) Changes to desmosomal antigens and lectin binding sites during differentiation in normal epidermis: a quantitative ultrastructural study. J Cell Sci 92: 667–677

    Google Scholar 

  39. Smith WP, Christensen MS, Nacht S, Gans EH (1982) Effect of lipids on the aggregation and permeability of human stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 78: 7–11

    Google Scholar 

  40. Suzuki Y, Nomura J, Hori J, Koyama J, Takahashi M, Horii I (1993) Detection and characterization of endogenous proteases associated with desquamation of stratum corneum. Arch Dermatol Res 285: 372–377

    Google Scholar 

  41. Watkinson A, Smith CG, Rawlings AV (1993) Identification and localization of tryptic- and chymotryptic-like enzymes in human stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 102: 637

    Google Scholar 

  42. Wildnauer RH, Bothwell JW, Douglass AB (1971) Stratum corneum biomechanical properties. J Invest Dermatol 56: 72–77

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Unilever Research, 45, River Road, 07020, Edgewater, New Jersey, USA

    A. Rawlings & R. Sabin

  2. Unilever Research, Sharnbrook, Bedford, UK

    C. Harding, A. Watkinson, J. Banks & C. Ackerman

Authors
  1. A. Rawlings
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. R. Sabin
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. C. Harding
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  4. A. Watkinson
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  5. J. Banks
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  6. C. Ackerman
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Cite this article

Rawlings, A., Sabin, R., Harding, C. et al. The effect of glycerol and humidity on desmosome degradation in stratum corneum. Arch Dermatol Res 287, 457–464 (1995). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00373429

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00373429

Key words

Search

Navigation