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Treatment of Dry Skin Syndrome pp 313–339Cite as

The Composition and Development of Moisturizers

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Abstract

“Moisturizer” is such a commonplace term undoubtedly meaning many things to different people. So while the common feature of skin needing moisturization is a loss of the natural stratum corneum moisture content, the quantitative and qualitative extent will vary. According to Marie Lodén, moisturizers “should be tailored with respect to the dermatological abnormality” [1]. Defining “the dermatological abnormality” may help understand the consumer need, but acceptance by the end user, whether patient or cosmetic user, may be driven by other factors. Individuals with a “xerosis” arising from pathology – e.g. ichthyosis or eczema – may have similar needs to someone with senile xerosis, but the intensity, persistence and cosmetic properties of the treatment may vary, as may the appropriate ingredients. Likewise, there may be subtle differences between the needs of those who seek improvement in “skin moisturization” as a result of environmental challenges such as surfactant drying, short-term sun exposure and ageing. The concept of the “dry-skin cycle” has shifted thinking on the “dermatological abnormality” from a “dry versus moisturised” state to a dynamic model [2, 3]. This helps explain why moisturization remains the top unmet consumer skin needs, a constant point of reference in this chapter and further defined in Sect. 21.2.

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Acknowledgments

I would like to thank my colleagues Adam Muggleton and Mark Hanlon in preparing the figures and tables, Alain Mavon and Aurelie Laloeuf for helpful comments on the text and my wife Julia for assistance in preparing the document.

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  1. Skincare and Claim Support, Oriflame Research and Development Ltd, Bray Business Park, Kilruddery, Bray, Co.Wicklow, Ireland

    Steve Barton

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Correspondence to Steve Barton .

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  1. Eviderm Institute, Bergshamra Allé 9, Solna, 17077, Sweden

    Marie Lodén

  2. School of Medicine, Department Dermatology, University of California, San Francisco, Divisadero 1701, San Francisco, 94143-0989, California, USA

    Howard I. Maibach

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Barton, S. (2012). The Composition and Development of Moisturizers. In: Lodén, M., Maibach, H. (eds) Treatment of Dry Skin Syndrome. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-27606-4_21

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-27606-4_21

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